One of the nice surprises about our sort of terribly planned “Illyria” tour in June was how there were genuinely a lot of Twelfth Night coincidences. In Rovinj, it was really sweet walking into a church and finding it decorated in white and pink for a wedding.
The water at Rovinj sea-port on the west coast of Croatia, historical Illyria, is still, clear and green-blue. Artisan jewellery is draped on the stucco walls and last night's wine bottles have been tidily placed on the window-sill for collection. Olivia has locked herself away; Orsino is dozily sighing in his lounge; and this static world is about to be violently interrupted by a catastrophic wreck.
As always, Part Three left me jonesing for more, but I think that's a good thing. The day was lovely and, although I thought it would be a bit gimmicky, the battlefield setting really did work.
Beatriz Romilly was again outstanding as an active, clever and bored Eleanor, Gloucester's wife. I wanted more from Suffolk and Margaret's relationship, but Jack Cade was cracking good fun, as ever.
Overall I liked Harry the Sixth, but I wished there had been a bit more energy. I suspect the actors were probably pacing themselves for the all-dayer, which is totally understandable, but it's such a mad manic play that I wanted a bit more verve. Beatriz Romilly and Graham Butler were definitely the standouts of a strong ensemble.
The western tip of Rovinj's old town is very Viola, rocky and Adriatic (more on that later this week!), but the southern curve of the town really made me think of Orsino. It's bleary and luxurious, and there are a handful of cocktail bars and cafes right on the water.